Spring Lawn Care

Sunday, March 23 2003 @ 01:27 PM

Contributed by: Admin

Source:ext.vt.edu

As the grass greens up, many homeowners are anxious to get out and start working on their lawns. A little patience and care at this point will reward the gardener with a fine lawn later.

For instance, the sight of new grass growing often inspires the homeowner to run out and spread fertilizer to help the young blades along. This is actually the opposite of recommended practices for fescue and bluegrass lawns. The proper time to feed grass is in the fall, when the roots that will sustain the plants through the following summer are actively growing. Even if the fall feeding was missed, any spring feeding should be limited to a light feeding (1/2 pound of actual nitrogen, i.e., 5 pounds of 10-10-10, per 1000 sq. ft.) after the initial flush of growth has subsided, probably sometime in May or early June.

Lime, on the other hand, should be applied in early spring, if soil tests show that it is necessary. Most lawn grasses grow best at soil pH's of 6.0 to 7.0, so have your soil's pH analyzed every two to three years to be sure you are staying in that range. The soil test results will include recommendations on how much lime to apply.

The best time to establish a new lawn from seed is in the fall, but many homeowners will need to reseed patches of lawn that have been damaged during the winter. Seed sown during March and early April will have a chance to grow successfully if it is well watered and cared for, from seeding on through the heat of summer. It is a good idea to fertilize newly seeded grass using a high phosphorous fertilizer (for example, 25 pounds of 5-10-5 per 1000 square feet when patch seeding) which will foster root growth. The grass will be stronger and healthier if you can water daily until the plants are established. Water approximately once a week throughout the summer, for the tops of the grass may look great, but the roots are not as long and dense as those of the grass in an established lawn.

There are many varieties and types of grass seed from which to choose. Your county cooperative extension agent can supply you with a publication which discusses selection of turfgrasses in Virginia.

When your lawn requires its first cutting, be sure not to cut too short. Mow to about two inches during the spring, then raise the cutting height another half inch when summer arrives. Mow frequently so that no more than one third of the grass blade is removed at one time.

Along with the grass, several undesirables are probably growing in your lawn. The best prevention for a weedy lawn is to provide such great growing conditions that the turf crowds out the weeds. If the weeds are sparse, use that early spring energy to hand pull some of those perennial weeds. There are chemicals that can be used if you have more weeds than energy. If you choose to use herbicides, be sure to apply them when they will have maximum impact on the weed population. Follow label directions closely for information on time of application and safety precautions.

Apply preemergent herbicides between the middle of March and the middle of April to control crabgrass. Crabgrass generally emerges about the time of dogwood bloom, and the preemergent herbicides used to control it will not affect crabgrass that is already up and growing.

Spraying for dandelions is most effective in fall, but spring spraying of a broadleaf weed killer will control many of them. Be sure to spray when the weeds are actively growing rather than during drought conditions. When spraying any herbicide, use a different sprayer from the one which you use to apply insecticides or fungicides. Mark it "HERBICIDE" so it will not inadvertently be used for other purposes, which may result in herbicide residues damaging valuable plants.

March is still a little early for dethatching and insect control, so after taking care of the few necessary lawn chores for early spring, you can relax and save your energy for summer mowing.



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