| This is not so important now that more than just one or two variety of potatoes are being offered in the Supermarkets. Early potatoes don't produce as heavily, but they take up less space, and are less likely to be badly affected by blight. Put in certified 'seed' potatoes from the garden centre in early spring, 300mm apart for early varieties, about 375mm for main crop varieties, and about 100mm deep. The soil needs to be fertile (adequate potash is particularly important), and unlimed. Peat is a useful adjunct. Potato plants should never be allowed to dry out. Wetting and drying causes the larger tubers to have hollow hearts. At about 250mm high, draw the soil up in a mound around the stems. If you don't mound, the potatoes will be exposed to light and become greened.
Alternatively, mulch with about 150mm or more of pea straw, peat, hay, or any other non weedy mulch. The tubers will form on the surface of the soil, or just below. Early varieties include 'Epicure', 'Jersey Bennes', and 'Arran Banner'. Small 'new' potatoes can be harvested about 2 months from planting, and the early crop is ready in about 3 months. Main crop potatoes are ready about 5 months from putting in.
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POTATO Solanum tuberosum. Potatoes are basically a cool weather crop-very high temperatures inhibit development of the tubers. The foliage can be damaged by late frosts in Spring, but developing tubers won't be affected. The main reason an urban gardener should consider growing her/his own spuds is to get early 'new' potatoes. The other possible reason might be to secure a continuing supply of a favorite variety that is not supplied in the market.